From Suceava we were able to board a slow slow train that goes over the Carpathian mountains to Brasov, the main town in Translyvania (and no doubt the source of sniggers for many passing english teenagers)
Our abysmal views on Romanian toilet facilities were further compounded by the experiences on the train. There are facilities in the sweltering jungles of asia and on African plains that are far cleaner and more hygenic than what we have seen in this country - so much for compliance with EU standards.
Brasov is a very pretty, if somewhat touristy, town. It has picture postcard cobbled streets and a main plaza with many old churches and fortified gateways. However our number 1 reason for visiting the area was to get a taste of Draculian history and visit some of the gothic castles that inspire images of fanged nasties and angry pitchfork mobs. We were therefore somewhat disappointed to discover that the main castles where Vlad Tepis was reported to have been located and that inspired Brad Stoker (namely Bran and Rasnov) are actually rather small and not very forboding. Bran is a very holiday home type affair set in the middle of town and Rasnov has long since seen better days with only the slightest of ruins remaining.
We were however much more impressed by the old royal palace Peles in Sinai (comissioned for King Carol as a summer residence) which has been very tastefully built with some stunning woodwork and features.
In addition we also took a day trip to Sighisoara, an old town admist many Saxon villages that had great views from its town hall tower and a very disappointing torture museum (1 room with some rope and a couple of mannicles).