Nestled on the border with China, Sapa is a refreshing highland retreat in more than one sense. This was an area initially developed by the French as a summer getaway in the 1920s, due to its cooler climate, and so has a distinctly european swiss alpsy type feeling.
The cooler climate must also effect the local temperament as we noted the people to be far more friendly and relaxed than Hanoi. The local Black Hmong tribe people provide vibrancy and color to the town in their traditional garb and the older women prowl the streets like hawks decending on the tourists with familiar "buy from me" squarks. Indeed we were tracked for almost 10km on a hike through the valley by a couple of very determined hawkers, but in the end Caroline couldn't resist the charm of the lovely 10 year old girl who had helped her whilst navigating the balancing act required to cross the rice fields without falling into the knee high mud - so ended up buying a cute bracelet from her at the end of the day.
We took the night sleeper train to and from Sapa from Hanoi. This was an experience in itself - our first train of our trip. We shared a 4 berth cabin in both directions. A bit of challenge figuring out how the whole system works, but in the end everything falls into place, we got on the train and off we went. The train was not quite as smooth as I had expected - kind of like as you are pulling out of charing cross, when you are crossing the numerous tracks with all the bumps and turns and going at slow speed - it's kind of like that the entire way. However, definitely worth it since it saves a day or traveling and the cost of one night in hotel.